“I think that a revision of calendars is in some ways desirable: the times, and not only the digital revolution, require it. However, I think it is premature to be swept away by the enthusiasm over the see-now-buy-now: for this revolution to be effective and permanent, it will be necessary to intervene on every step of the pipeline in order to create an operating mechanism, not the umpteenth operation of mere communication. I am not worried about the fact that everything goes online right away on social media: dailies have been doing this forever. I would like to realign the timing of the presentations with those of sales in stores with intelligence, balance and great functionality. This will require time and naturally a strategy fit at all levels, which I am ready to undertake.” – Giorgio Armani on changing fashion calendars.
I received this quote in my inbox this morning and it’s very obvious that the fashion world and all its components (including fashion shows) are shifting right now and changes are happening. First it was Burberry’s Christopher Bailey, announcing to only show twice a year (men and women at the same time) and to show a collection on the catwalk at the same time as going in stores. Then Tom Ford cancelled his New York Fashion Week show and announced to be adopting the same ‘see-now-buy-now’-model in September. Even Vetements will be doing the same as per January 2017, which means that their head of design Demna Gvasalia (recently announced as Alexander Wang’s successor as creative director at Balenciaga) might be doing the same at Balenciaga. Tommy Hilfiger is in. In the mean time Gucci refuses to take the plunge.
Who’s next? And what do we think of this?
Honestly I think it is about time. Because the hard this shift might be for brands (especially production wise) aren’t we all ready to wear the latest of the latest instead of having to wait for six months for it to hit stores (after we have seen it over and over and over again in magazines and on the streets?). Also, this prevents high street brands from copying before the original hits stores, too! Good vibes only.
PS: I am wondering what this’ll mean for magazines…